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[ 大阪 ] 夏天的尾巴 - 烈日下的 Danjiri 岸和田地車祭

一層的民族的精神。

tradition is the challenge for the 35 floats that run around the city to turn quickly at corners without having anyone falling off the float or the float toppling over or over-swinging to kill anyone or damage any property. That is not just a matter of experinces and lessons learnt, but more importantly, a good balance of everyone involved in this teamwork. 


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我們中午到大阪的難波車站 (Namba Station) 搭這快車到岸和田站. 其實岸和田離大阪的機場還滿近的 (所以離市區是有段距離).
We got on the train to Kishiwada from the Namba Station. Kishiwada is actually closer to the Osaka airport than to the Osaka city centre so it's a bit out of the city centre.

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一出了車站,整個城市在祭典這幾天都相當熱鬧,街上到處都是各式各樣的攤販,光這種撈東西的就不知道有多少攤, 而且撈的東西還真是多樣化,從撈金魚  (那裡面還有超大的魚太不可思議), 還有一些有的沒有的.
Once you're out of the train station, you could feel this festival is keeping this city busy. You could see all kinds of stalls (food, game, miscellaneous things) all over the city, especially on the main streets.

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像是這邊就有撈寄居蟹&蝦子的.. 還滿誇張的.
Using a paper net to catch goldfish or other things is a popular game for kids at these kind of festivals. But there seems to be quite a variation now - the one to the left are hermit crabs and the one to the right are small shrimp!!


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為什麼在九月底這邊會有這個彩車節 (其實是這區廟裡的神轎)? 
這個彩車節起始于西元 1703 年當地為了慶祝五穀豐收而舉行這樣的一個祭典,城內外的居民會拉著這踩車進城&表演給當時的城主看,每輛約 4,000 公斤的車都是許多人拉著/跟著/坐著/站著或圍繞著。在節慶期間,全市的 35 輛的木製彩車會市民(無論老小)拉著/跟著在整個城市的大街小巷與奔騰。除了車頂上拿著兩把扇子在車子行進時會跳來跳去的舞者看起來都讓人有點捏把冷汗外,還有那每個轉角不慢慢過,反而全力衝刺加速讓車快速甩尾的橋段 (但絕對不能真的甩尾不然車子會翻或會撞到週邊的建築或觀眾)-

A description of the festival from JAL webssite:
Danjiri matsuri (float-pulling festivals) can be some of the most thrilling festivals in Japan, and among them, none can compete with the hair-raising intensity of the danjiri festivals of Osaka.

During a danjiri festival, neighborhood guilds pull elaborately carved wooden floats throughout the streets, accompanied by lively drum and bell playing and loud calls back and forth. Osaka's Kishiwada Danjiri Festival is characterized by 35 teams pulling their floats at breakneck speeds, with guild-leaders hopping and dancing on top of the floats as they race down the streets and around tight corners. Some of the floats are so large that they are pulled by up to 500 team members. This risky run through town, which involves the participation of local citizens of all ages, is considered a show of strength, endurance and community bonding.
 

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彩車主要是由前面的人拉著繩索走的,車上除了滿滿是人外,也有樂手在吹/敲擊傳統樂器。 若只是在直走,可能會部分用走的,部分用跑的,但一到要轉彎的地方,一定是這組彩車的全部的人一起跑 (無論是在前面或後面的)。
The float is pulled by a thick rope by the large amount of people in front of it. The float/cart is not only filled with people, there are also musicians playing traditional musical instruments onboard. The whole group may walk or run when they're just on a street (not making turns yet). But when they need to turn left or right onto another street, they cannot just slow down and turn; they need to pull the float and quickly run thorugh it (the dangerous bit).
 

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有些團體比較多人 (多則聽說達 500 人), 有些團體人就相對比較少, 但相同的是,大家都會穿 "制服". 而且都是最小的小朋友拉著繩子在最前面,再來才是比較壯年的 (越靠近彩車的).
Some of these goups can be quite large (maybe 500 people with 1 float?!). They all wear an "uniform" so you can easily distinguish one group from another. Usually the children will be at the very front of the line. Then you have the stronger men closer to the float (for better control and more strength).
 

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就算沒拉繩子沒推車子也不能輕忽,因為如果你不小心跌倒或停下來,你可能會被後面的踩過去.. (來不及停) 很多受傷&死亡的 case 也是因為這樣.
Even if you're not pulling or pushing the float, if you're in the group and you suddenly stop or fall, you could just get stepped or run over.

來看一下過去的一些事故集景... 我們就是看完了這個才知道原來隔天要去的這個祭典是這麼的刺激...
The following is a video of a compilation of what went wrong at this festival before. Prior to watching this we had no idea that this festival could be that dangerous and crazy!
 



 

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整個市區有幾個 "重點轉彎區", 也就是比較高難度的挑戰區。這個街口就是最有名的之一,這邊一旁還特地設了觀賞席,這觀賞席的位子聽說還很不容易買得到,是因為友人剛好友親戚住在附近才可以先卡到票。而且這票不是一拿就可坐著看一天,而是有時段限制的. 當天太陽超大,這個觀賞席又沒有遮蔽物,真的是超級曝曬! 看前面的先生的頭好像快冒煙了趕緊拿濕毛巾放著 (lol...)

The whole city has a few "big corners" - the challenging ones for the float to turn quickly without toppling over or hitting anything or anyone around there. There was even a temporary audiene seating area set up there. The tickets for these seats were hard to get and we had to thank our friends for arranging it. With the ticket, you don't get a whole day's seat here; you only get a certain time slot that you could occupy the seat. When we were the there, you could see how strong the sun was. The guy in front of us even got a wet towel to cover his head! 
 

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全力衝刺的轉彎就是這祭典最危險的部分,若是有人在這活動受傷/死亡,相關人是需要附上刑事責任的. 這個活動其實最重要的也就是團體合作,什麼人應該站在什麼位置,該怎麼拉,該怎麼跑,該怎麼控制, 該怎麼互相配合才不會導致車子不穩或甩尾或有人從上面掉下來, 或車子撞到一旁的路人或建築等,  balance & team work 就相當的重要.

Speed turn at these sharp corners is the hardest and most dangerous part. If a good balance of teamwork combining previous experience and technqiues was not achieved, the super heavy float may just make a big swing at the end of the turn - the float may topple over, the people on the float may fall off, the float may hit neighbouring architecture or people standing near it.

來看段我剪輯的現場短片吧:
The following is a clip I edited with videos taken with my iphone at the event:

  
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越快通過轉彎的車子&車子轉彎後還是穩的就會得到越多掌聲,上面的舞者若能同時在上面揮舞啊跳啊,就更多人會 wow.
The floats that could turn very quickly at these sharp corners without loosing its balance or travel off the track will receive lots of cheers from the audience. (the group members will be proud of themselves as well). If the dancer on top could jump around while turning (without loosing balance or falling off), the audience was also very impressed by that.
 

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岸和田だんじり祭  Kishiwada Danjiri Festival 
W: http://www.city.kishiwada.osaka.jp/site/danjiri/

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