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[ Ipoh ] 蘇格蘭人鬧鬼城堡 & 金寶鎮食去

廣為流傳。
 
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開了一陣子,這地方還真是偏僻啊,看起來1900初期這地方更荒郊野嶺。
After about 30-40mins drive from Ipoh city centre, we've arrived at the estate. It's definitely quite out of the way and not too much around it.

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凱莉城堡的主人是個在20世紀末來馬來西亞種橡膠樹和發錫礦財的蘇格蘭人,在這邊小有成就後就回蘇格蘭結婚並把太太接到馬來西亞。有了小孩後因原本的木屋在每天下午開始變超熱所以必須建石頭屋&後續建這大宅,貸款出了些問題,後來還用了太太所獲得的遺產資助了這城堡建造的大部分資金,因經商不利和壞運接踵而來,因逢第一世界大戰材料進不來問題一堆。
The construction of this building was quite money consuming. The owner brought in 70 craftsman from India to work on this 6-storey + the first  lift in mansion in Malaysia project. 

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後面的屋子是之前主人住的屋子, 原本木屋的部分基本上已經消失了,凱莉城堡則是後來才建的。
The house that the family lived in was a wooden bungalow which can't be seem on here anymore. As you can see the original building's structure looks pretty fragile and needs to be supported by other structure to prevent it from collapsing. The stone building & brick buildings was buit later on when the wooden bungalow gets unberably hot in the afternoon and it was necessary to build a different house that'd be more comfortable for the weather.

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這棟雖然叫做城堡,但是其實 size 並沒有到城堡那麼大,比較像是countryhouse or mansion 那種大房子。
It's called a "castle" but the size is not really that big. It's more like a courtryhouse or mansion I think.

 

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後來城堡男主人到葡萄牙洽公在 hotel 感冒後來因肺炎在那過世。他的太太則將當時還未完工的城堡及土地脫手,帶小孩回到英國住在倫敦 Harrods百貨附近. 之後就未回來過馬來西亞. 後來他們的兒子成了飛行員,在二次世界大戰罹難. 
The owner caught a chill at a hotel in Lisbon, Portugal on a business trip and died of pneumonia. His wife decided to sell the estate and moved back to London, staying at a luxurious apartment near the Harrods. His son then became a pilot and died in World War II.

 

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關於鬧鬼這事,因這邊基本上看起來就像廢墟,之前許多工人在這邊建造時死亡,又在荒郊野嶺的坡上,異國情調的設計加上前面還有條小護城河,所以怎麼看都會有些想像。一年一對加拿大夫妻晚上到這拍這邊的夜行動物據說就拍到一位男子在窗邊.也有人說晚上看到男主人徘徊在屋子的走廊,或是女主人的鬼魂在臥室。還有傳言日本兵在二戰期間曾把這邊當刑場。
The place is said to be haunted by the owners that the house was built for. Also many workers died during construction or killed by the flu or whatever disease was passing through the population back then. It was also rumoured that during world world II, the Japanese army used to execute people here.

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右下圖是城堡的女主人把豪宅和城堡拍賣的新聞,右上圖是這城堡要賣時的狀況,左上圖則是當時服務這城堡主人的傭人們和他們的小主人。
The bottom right corner is an advertisement in the newspaper of 1928 that shows the house & estate are to be auctioned. The top right photo shows what the place was like when the owner's wife sold it. Top left photo was the servants and the owner's son.
 

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後來買這城堡的英國公司認為建完這城堡要花太多錢 & 沒什麼意義所以就把它荒廢在那. 所以這地方曾經差點被叢林吞沒. 後來被重新整頓變成了觀光景點,現在委由一間公司管理。
The Liverpool company that acquired it thought it'd be a waste of money to finish the castle so it was left to its fate. For some time the place was almost consumed by jungle. Then it was cleared up and restored to become a tourist attraction. Now it's managed by a company.

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1918年的西班牙流感也到了這,許多做工的也因此病死,這邊的印度工人請主人蓋廟來請神明息怒,蓋完後似乎真的也就漸漸沒事了。為答謝主人印度廟上的小神像旁也把他給放上去了。
The 1918 Spanish flu killed many workers here. The Indians urged the owner to build a temple to ask the gods/goddesses for forgiveness. After the temple was completed the flu was pretty much gone as well. As a return to the owner's generosity, they have a small statue of the owner on the temple along with the other deities.

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這邊有個展示區裡面特別佈置成若這城堡完工那主人會如何佈置,城堡主人喜歡那種很異國的建築&家具.
The space was decorated to show what it would've been like if the owner finished building and decorating the house. The owner seemed to like to collect exotic things.

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當時這城堡堪稱是馬來西亞第一棟有電梯的豪宅. 但可惜在主人還沒回英國取訂做的電梯就過世了,留下這廢墟和原本要裝電梯的空間。
This could've been the first house to install an elevator in Malaysia. But the owner passed away before he could go retrieve the elevator he ordered in the UK. So the elevator shaft was just left as it was.

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這邊看出去的景色還真是 strategic 啊,一覽無遺。
From the upper floors of the building.

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頂樓原本的計畫是蓋露天網球場+開趴的場所。
The rooftop was designed to be an outdoor tennis and party place.


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這邊其實建築還是很脆弱,所以別太靠近邊緣,像是頂樓這邊雖然有這個平台,但基本上我們才不敢走上去,萬一它塌下來不久太可怕了。
The structure is pretty fragile in some areas. There are signs everywhere to warn you not to be so close to the edge. Like this platform on the upper floor, we didn't even dare to take the stairs and stand on that platform. What if it collapses!

 

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2003年附近的路拓寬是挖到地下秘密通道連接城堡和印度廟,據說城堡總共有四個秘密通道,可能是 for 逃難時用,只不過第四條一直沒人知道在哪.
Widening of the nearby road led to a discovery of a underground tunnel that linked the castle to the nearby Indian temple. It was said that there are 4 temples in total, possibly to be used in time of emergency. But the location of the fourth temple is yet to be found.

Gua Tempurung

後來我們本來準備要到 Gua Tempurung (椰殼洞) -大馬最大的石灰岩溶洞去探險!
Then we were all ready to go to Gua tempurung to see the largest cave on Penisular Malaysia!

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這是去洞穴的入口。
This is the entrance to the cave.
 

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總共有四個 tour 可選 (進去一定要 join 他們的tour 才可以進), 這4 個的差異在於難易度、是否會涉水&所需要的時間。Tour 4 那個大概要 4 個小時&會需要手腳並用&進水的那種。Tour 1 大概 45分鐘,沒什麼難度。
You need to join a tour in order to go into the cave. The tours vary in difficulty and time length. Tour 3 & 4 also requires that you climb through some holes or narrow passages and get wet in some areas.

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但可惜這次沒得去,因為現在在維修要到 4 月!可惡!網站上也沒寫,害我們白跑一趟了啦!外面也是一堆來了才看到現在是關閉中的當地旅客。&看天氣熱到屋頂都在冒煙了..
But too bad it's closed for maintenance 'til April! That was not posted on their official website! Lots of disappointed tourists at its door. It's still so hot here that you could see steam coming from the top of the roof.

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後來到了金寶一間手做醬油廠,在一個警察局後方,外面沒有任何的招牌,就像一般民宅,但走進去就是可以買醬油,我還問 JG 天哪這地方哪找的... 
Then we stopped by a soy sauce "factory" in Kampar right behind a police station. There was no sign outside of the house but somehow people just know to come here and get soy sauce...

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接著到金寶的巴剎吃午餐,朋友推薦了一兩間,這間靠近外面的 No.13 自己選要什麼配料再給老闆煮,有名的是他們自製的老鼠粉,它的黃色乾撈麵不太ok, 鹼水太重。
另外一盤黑黑的是另外一攤也很有名的炒粿條。
Then we went of to the Kampar market for some lunch. Some of the famous dishes from here. 

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這邊 NO. 13 的老鼠粉麵店的老鼠粉是自製的,可以另外挑些丸子類的一起煮,這個還不錯。不過在這邊吃環境就是這樣啦.. 髒髒亂亂&算半室外,不能有太多期待。我們的桌子下方還睡了一隻野狗..
Can't expect the environment to be clean and comfortable. Just focus on your food on the table (which can be good) and just quickly finish off and go.

其他和這次旅遊相關的Posts: 
1. [ Ipoh ] 電影中的復古錫礦小鎮
2. [ Ipoh ] 怡保的法式情調與廢墟堆的文創
3. [ Ipoh ] 大馬人都知的何人可涼茶新開了博物館
4. [ Ipoh ] 讓人有點傻眼的小桂琳公園
5. [ Ipoh ] 入住用餐 M Boutique 
6. [ Ipoh ] 蘇格蘭人鬧鬼城堡 & 金寶鎮食去

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