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[ Amoy ] 重返不一樣的鼓浪嶼

"市中心". 


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因我們從海滄搭船,所以是直接到內厝澳碼頭,也就是鼓浪嶼的西邊,從海滄到內厝澳的好處是人沒有另外一個碼頭多 (少很多; 搞不好還擠不上需要排超久),但壞處是這邊冬天晚班回海滄的船班在 5:30pm 就最後一班了,而且若不是住海滄的可能覺得還是在廈門島坐好了。

We took the ferry from Haicang because we were staying there. From that wharf we arrived at the harbour on the west side of the Gulangyu island. There's much less people traveling from Haicang over so there's less of a wait. But the down side is during winter time the last boat leaves at 5:30pm.

輪渡的時間表可看 Ferry schedule: http://www.xmferry.com/hxjpj/yk/hx/21070.htm


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因為年底忙得要死,從 office 出門到碼頭前都還沒機會 download 一下鼓浪嶼的地圖,也沒有好好 research 一下到底要走哪邊去哪裡,所以一下船過了一大堆招攬客人的導遊後就沒有看到可以拿的紙本地圖,也就是只能跟著路牌瞎走,若路邊有地圖就趕緊拍一下。

Because year end was crazy and I left the office without downloading the map of the island and didn't research much into the island. So we could only rely on the road signs and maps on the street.

 
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鼓浪嶼的主要建築群等大多在東邊,所以從西到東要走一陣子,不過也可搭電瓶車,島上無其他交通工具。
要說古色古香的建築,這邊超多,這個軍事管理區其實是個研究生宿舍.
Most of the main attractions and buildings are on the east end so it was a bit of a walk from west to east (approx 25-30some minutes). But along the way you get to see different things as well. Alternatively you could take the electric buggy car that stops at certain stops.
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在鼓浪嶼隨便走來走去都可以看到很多很 impressive 的歐式大宅院,只不過有些可能疏於維修,有些則是私宅&住的人比較不 care 建築美觀,所以還是有些格格不入的景。
Everywhere on the island you'd see a lot of these smal or large mansions built in the European style. Without those clothes or towels hanging on the buildings, you'd probably think you're in Europe or some other exotic place.

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鼓浪嶼比較大的景點之一就是菽莊花園,這個花園是板橋林家花園的林家在台灣被割讓給日本的時候林家搬到這邊所建的,是按照板橋林家花園但比較小的版本。
One of the must-go places is the Shuzhuang Garden. It was owned by a famous merchant from Taiwan.  The building and layout of the garden was a smaller version of what the merchant built in Banqiao, Taiwan.

 
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在這花園內的還有著名的鼓浪嶼鋼琴博物館,從海上花園走到坡上的鋼琴博物館可以看到附近的日光巖。
Inside the garden also houses the famous Gulangyu Piano Museum. From the garden uphill to the museum, you could see the famous "rock" of the island.


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鼓浪嶼也叫鋼琴之島因為這個地方的鋼琴密度是全國之最,而且許多鋼琴家&音樂人也都是來自這邊。鋼琴博物館有兩棟建築,裡面不能拍照所以要看只能自己親自看囉。裡面的鋼琴都相當珍貴&有意義,不是古代名音樂家彈過,或為某個皇帝/國王的什麼用途所建造,就是代表鋼琴建造史的某個歷史性突破等,這些鋼琴皆是一位鼓浪嶼的鋼琴收藏家所擁有。來到這邊建議聽這博物館的定時導覽,因為你要是光看根本看不出這些鋼琴的所以然,而且在導覽結束後會有鋼琴演奏,我們在時演奏者彈了"鼓浪嶼之波",這首旋律一聽怎麼那麼耳熟,原來是每次搭乘廈門航空在飛機上聽到的歌,而且沒想到它的歌詞居然全是講台灣&基隆港.. 不過有點政治背景就是了。

鼓浪屿四周海茫茫,海水鼓起波浪。
鼓浪嶼遥对着台湾岛,台湾是我家鄉。
登上日光岩眺望,只见云海苍苍。
我渴望,我渴望,快快见到你,美丽的基隆港。
母亲生我在台湾岛,基隆港把我滋养。我紧紧偎依着老水手,听他讲海龙王。
那迷人的故事吸引我,他娓娓的话语记心上,
我渴望,我渴望,快快见到你,美丽的基隆港!
鼓浪屿海波在日夜唱,唱不尽骨肉情长。
舀不干海峡的思乡水,思乡水鼓动波浪。
思乡思乡啊思乡,鼓浪鼓浪啊鼓浪。
我渴望,我渴望,快快见到你,美丽的基隆港。
 
Gulanyu is also called the Piano Island because it has the highest density of piano than anywhere in China. So lots of pianists and musicians are also from this island. There's 2 buildings to the museum. But no photos are allowed in there. The pianos here belonged to a piano enthusiast from Gulangyu. He really has an impression collection of piano here.  From the piano of Emperor Franz Josef, to other famous piano ateliers of different era and royalties/nobilities. There's guided tour of the museum at certain hour in the museum by the museum curator. Worth the wait to listen to them because otherwise you wouldn't get much just by looking at the pianos.


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Beautiful old mansions. Many are still private residences.

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一些老建築上的雕刻中西合璧看起來還是那麼個高貴典雅,完全可想像當鼓浪嶼還是個上流社會聚集的地方,這邊肯定很繁華。
Some of the deatils on the buildings are just unbelievably elegant and an interesting mix of the East & the West. These are the remains of what used to be an island occupied people of the upper class. 


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一些大的老建築已經改造為較大型的旅館,像是這個 "林氏府公館"就原是板橋林家花園主人的公館,後來林家搬回台灣這邊變得荒涼&疏於照顧,後來改建成旅館後才又重新翻修。
Some of the mansions have been converted into larger hotels. This mansion belonged to a wealthy Taiwanese merchant that built the Shuzhuang Garden. Because the family moved back to Taiwan in late 1940s the mansion fell into disrepair. Then it was revived when it was converted into a hotel.


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這邊也有自己可以做陶藝的地方。
There are places where you could make pottery pieces. 


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鼓浪嶼也有約 13 個不同國家的大使館,有些已經另外作為其他使用,有些則是成了廢墟,像是這個日本領事館舊址。
13 countries set up consulates in Gulangyu. Some of these buildings have been converted into other functions. Others have been left to fall into ruins, such as this site that used to be the Japanese consulate.

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平時可能這邊大門深鎖吧,因為建築上面還特別貼了這是危樓禁止進入。一旁還看到有人在拍婚紗照。
Maybe the gates of this old consulate is normally locked. On the building there's a sign that says it's dangerous to walk into this buidling because it hasn't been maintained. You could also see lots of newly weds doing pre-wedding photos here (in general everywhere on this isalnd).


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光看這張這片你可能以為這是歐洲。
Just looking at this photo you may think you're in London or some place in Europe.


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這張也是,有些大宅院真是大到讓人無法想像當時住在這邊的人到底時何許人也。
Another huge mansion. Some of these mansions are so large that you can't imagine who used to live in these.

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這個應該算是鼓浪嶼的鬧區吧,靠近島上東邊的碼頭,10年前我來時這邊根本沒幾間店,而且塵土飛揚到處在施工,如果有點也是賣海鮮或海鮮干物的那種有點簡陋&看起來髒髒的店。
The part of the town. 10 years ago there was not much here and things were pretty run-down. The stores were those dirty and messy ones selling dried seafood or live seafood kinds of things. Now there's quite a lot of modern and chic stores here.

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在鼓浪嶼的 "鬧區" 也有許多老建築,
In the busy part of the "city", still lots of interesting buildings.


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現在這區有很多有趣的店面。
Now this place is super busy with lots of interesting stores.


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這個還滿多分店的,這次沒機會 try, 下次再來.
There seems to be quite a few stores named Zhang Sanfeng. Didn't try this time. 


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& 這邊也有許多可以試試當地特色的小店,不但看起來乾淨也很時尚。
& Places where you could try some local snacks.

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顏色超鮮豔的店面.
Colourful stores.

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Other stores.

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因為得趕回西岸的碼頭,所以得往回走了,但因為這邊的路像是迷宮般,所以要完全走一樣的路,沒特別記還真是有些挑戰,下次再來應該真的要住在島上一晚,這座島晚上少了到處都是的旅客一定是另一番風情。
We had to rush back to the west side of the island. The road map on the island is like a maze but it'll eventually lead us to where we needed to go. At one time we also walked through this tunnel. So much to explore on this island. Should really consider staying overnight on this island once to see what it's like past the normal hours.

Other related Posts / 其他相關 Posts: 
1.  [ Amoy ] 重返不一樣的鼓浪嶼
2.  [Amoy ] 鼓浪嶼的上嶼水產下午茶
3.  [ Amoy ] 鼓浪嶼的黑貓與花之聲

Xiamen Posts of another time / 其他廈門的 posts: 
1. [ Amoy ] Cafe at the Consulate Inn
2. [ Amoy ] The Old and New Faces - 2/2
3. [ Amoy ] The Old and New Faces - 1/2
4. [ Amoy ] In the Island Full of Pianos - Gulangyu
5 . Amoy, It has been a year

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